Thanks to Cali
Kid for this info.
When I ordered the SB's and opted to get the long ones (SB7100) as had been
suggested by KMG_365 for the ABS modulator (qty. 4). I also ordered SB's for
wheel calipers and clutch. Today I began bleeding. I started with the front
wheel control circuit, and all went smoothly. The rear control circuit was
another story. I began bleeding position "1" and got a lot of air. I
went thru about 3 resevoirs full before I decided to go on to #2 & #3. Back
at #1 again I still got air. I started looking for leaks, but the system looked
dry as a bone. The only access to the system was the SB. I discovered several
things.
1. The folks at SB didn't apply sealant all the way down the threads. Fully
installed the sealant did engage (not by much). When I opened the SB 1/4 to 1/2
turn it allowed air to be drawn in around the threads, hence the air I was
seeing. It took about 7 resevoirs full to get all the air out.
2. I found that the beveled end of the SB is longer than the stock so there is
less thread engagement, which made the application of sealant more crucial. See
Below
3. Less engagement could be a concern when considering torques. With less thread
engagement there is less margin for error if you over torque them. If you look
at the pic you'll see that the difference is only 1mm. That equates to 1 turn.
This seems trivial, but there are only 5 turns with the stock bleeders before
they seat. Remove one and you have 20% less thread. I believe it reduces your
margin of error if you over tighten the SB's (I know this is all very anal 
).
I might add that I have found no torque spec for the bleeders on the ABS
modulator. I tightened mine very carefully, by hand. Personally I don't think
"torqueing" is necessary anyhoo, unless your really uncomfortable
about the right amount of "hand tight".
Lastly, in regards to the longer SB's (SB7100). I found this to be marginally
helpful. There was a little advantage to using them (longer nipples). Order the
shorter size (SB7100S) and there would be no problem. In fact the SB7100 might
work just fine in the #3 position (long, vertical bleeder), it seems long
enough. The pics below give an idea of how long they are.
Compare those to Jamie's pic HERE
The best tip is to remove the connectors. With these out of the way the bleeders
are very easy to access, as you can see.
All in all, using the SB's is a very good idea.
A word about the clutch SB (1010s)-
Having recognized the difference in SB's from stock I took particular note when
installing the SB in the clutch bleed fitting. I considered leaving the SB in
place, but there is only ONE turn of thread engagement before the SB
seats itself. I checked carefully 'cause I thought I was wrong the first time.
But screw the SB all the way in and then back it out, and at one turn, POP, out
she comes. Certainly, there is a high risk of stripping something if you try to
tighten it in place and leave it. Seems to me that I would not be able to
tighten it enough to feel secure about leaving it there. I suppose the worst
thing that happens is that it comes out and the check ball keeps fluid in, but
if left unnoticed you might get leak.
Secondly, only one thread of engagement means that it is necessary to have
sealant to the very end of the threads for the SB to work properly.
Otherwise, you'll get air, as I did in the previous description. I opted to
reinstall the grub screw.
Tip: The check ball in the clutch bleed fitting is spring loaded. The SB is
pointed. Filing the point (not too much) off the SB makes it easier to install.
Here's what I mean
Here's a tip if you use the "mini-stan" - put a small tube like the
ones you find on a can of WD-40 down the center of the "mini", such
that it protrudes just slightly beyond the bottom of the threaded area. The tube
lets the air out of the resevoir, and fluid flows in much quicker. I waited
while the fluid dripped into the resevoir on the first fill. I wanted to know I
had sufficient fluid in the resevoir before I started pumping. This will
eleviate the waiting.
Pic of my mini-stan
Trivia question: What did I use for the cap on my mini-stan?
Hope all this assists someone, I'm tired